Tire Tips For Your Car

In maintaining a car, tire purchase is always expensive but necessary. Every 4-5 years on average, you need to replace your tires. Depending on the size/measurement and type of your tires, this could translate to $300 to $1,000 to just purchasing new tires alone. Then adding cost of balancing, mounting, getting rid of your old tires, etc - you add another about $40 per tire. Although you only do this every 4-5 years, it is still quite costly. So how can we do some cost saving in this tire related stuff?

TIRE LIFETIME
Using your tire as long as possible is one way to do it, but if you are using bald tire, it can be very dangerous. So how can we get the best lifetime of our tires? There are three simple principles: tire pressure, balancing, and alignment. If you keep these 3 things in line then you have the possibility to get the most out of your tire lifetime. These 3 things basically deal with the evenness of your tire thread wear. If you have under-inflated tire(s), or an unbalanced tire(s), or misaligned car, it will create uneven wear - which will reduce the lifetime of your tire.
TIPS:

• The standard manufacturer recommended tire pressure usually listed on a sticker inside one of your door.
• Most tire shop/place (Firestone, Goodyear, DiscountTire, etc) will check pressure and inflate your tire for free of charge.
• Most tire shop (at least I know Firestone, NTB, and DiscountTire) have a lifetime balancing deal. So you pay a fee ($15 per tire), but then you can balance your tires anytime you want as long as you own the same set of tires. I balance my tires every 6,000 miles or every 6 months. This is a lot cheaper compared to what the car dealership is charging you.
• Most tire shop (at least I know Firestone) have a lifetime alignment deal. So you pay a fee ($170 at Firestone), but then you can your car anytime you want as long as you own the car (some places only goes for 3-4 years). I check my alignment every time I balance my tires - every 6,000 miles or every 6 months. For a single standard alignment, it usually costs you about $70 - so within 3 alignments, I already got my money's worth.

TIRE PURCHASE
You can get your tire measurements from your own tire, just look at the side wall and it will be written there, usually in this format: XXX/YY/RZZ. My minivan has these measurements: 235/65/R16. Or, you can go to www.tirerack.com and enter your car's year, make, and model - then it will tell you the original tire sizes/measurements.

Once you have your measurements/sizes, go to www.tirerack.com, click "Tires" and then "Survey Results". Now depending on your car type, and tire type, you want to select the tire type that you want. A few tips: "Summer" tire is unusable in the winter time, "Winter" tire is usable in non-winter times but has short lifetime. Since I live in Ohio, I always buy an "All Season" tire - which means I don't have to replace the set of tire seasonally. So I open each "All Season" option in a new tab in my browser and enter in my tire size on the left side under "FILTER BY" of the window and close the tabs that yielded no results. From that point on, it is just a matter of taste, preference, price, and survey results. For example, for my minivan (235/65/R16), I am choosing General AltiMAX RT43 (T-Speed Rated) as my top pick. Now if you are buying new tires, you put the tire in your basket, and pay and checkout from TireRack.com - you can ship it to your home, in which then you will need to take them to the tire shop to be installed later on, or you can ship them directly to the tire shop that you will be installing (assuming you already made an appointment with them).
TIPS:

• If you are buying new tires from the big-box store, always go to Discount Tire. They always have the best price. Always. They even price-match.
• Always ask for lifetime balancing during your installation - you pay a bit more, but worth it. Read "TIRE LIFETIME" above.
• Never go to Monroe, Walmart, Sears, Midas, Meineke
• If you prefer local store instead of the chain-shops, go to Katz Tires in Columbus. Good people, fast, awesome prices, excellent customer satisfaction

PURCHASING USED TIRES
Another option is to buy used tires. There is a huge market for used tires - from junk yards, people swapping rims & tires, etc. These tires usually still have about 50-90% thread left, which means 2-4 years (or more). Now why used tires? Because they are "CHEAP" - I am talking REALLY REALLY CHEAP. Here is an example, a new tire for Continental ProContact (245/45/R18) cost about $210 per tire. In the used market, with 80% thread, you can get one for about $50-$60 (including mounting, balancing, and disposing your old tire). If you are not picky about brand, you can get cheaper ones that only cost about $35-$45 per tire for that size. For smaller size (for like a Civic or an Elantra etc), it can be cheaper still. I have seen someone walk out the door with 4 tires installed, balanced, and dispose old tires for $100. Getting used tire(s) is ideal when you do not need a whole set - sometimes you just need 1 tire or maybe a pair because of flat, sidewall damage, etc. Used tires are not ideal if you are a stickler to a particular brand/type, or if you have rare sizes - since they are used and cannot be special ordered.
TIPS:

• Know what you want in terms of sizes and brand/type. I would use the survey from TireRack to narrow down my list of brands/types.
• Call lots of places and compare prices, thread-wear, and availability. In Columbus alone there are about 20+ used tire shops.
• Read shops review. Some shops are really friendly, nice, and professional. Some are just plain rude and questionable.

My tire store is Katz Tires. They are old-school, been in Columbus forever, well-known tire shop in Columbus. They sell new and used tires. Their service is always impeccable, fast, economical, satisfaction guaranteed. They are a tire shop - so they sell, mount, and fix tires - nothing else. Katz is always the first shop I call if I need a used tire or a plug/patch. Here is a story where they just treat you above and beyond: I came in the other day because of a leak in one of my tire. My tire pressure indicator alerted me about it and I need to put about 10 psi of air every week. So after 2 weeks of leakage, I brought it to Katz. They took care of me right away, dismounted the wheel, checked for leaks, inspected the tire, and after 10 minutes or so, one of their staff came to me and said that they could not find a leak. I told them my story and they thought it was a just small leakage from dirty rim lip. So they cleaned the rim and the tire, remounted the tire into the rim, re-balanced the wheel, mounted the wheel into the car. When the staff gave me my key back and I was ready to pay - he said "free of charge, no need to pay". So I was a bit confused and asked him "Really? Are you sure?" He replied, "Absolutely. 100%. Bring it back if it still leaking and we will take another look." He just won a customer for life.
Don't believe me about Katz? Check out their Yelp review.

There is also a Firestone nearby my house where I do all my lifetime balancing and alignments. They treat me right, rarely push any services beyond what I need, and they are close to there I live. I also like Discount Tire, they are generally great, but they do not do alignment. So balancing & alignment in separate places just create too much hassle for me.

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Prepaid Cellphone Services (update)

In July, I wrote about going PREPAID for my cellphone service - in which I mentioned T-Mobile Monthly 4G plan. IN the past several months, I have done quite an extensive research about available prepaid service, from just minutes and messages to all unlimited. This post is a highlight or summary of what I found and my recommendations.

Straight Talk

Straight Talk is probably providing the best value for prepaid phone service on the market right now in US - with $45 a month for unlimited voice, messages, and data*. This is probably my choice in January when I am done with my T-Mobile contract.

Straight Talk Wireless' parent company is TracFone Wireless - which is the largest prepaid service provide in US. TracFone mostly offers basic services such as voice only or voice and messages only. Straight Talk is different that it's main service is about unlimited* voice, messages, and data for $45 a month. The data part is not truly unlimited - it is 2-5GB with 3G speed with some restrictions such as data plan cannot be used to tether, cannot be used with BB service, no P2P, etc.

Straight Talk uses GSM bands from both T-Mobile and ATT. So what this means is that you can bring your own ATT-locked phone and asked for ATT-based SIM from Straight Talk or bringing your own T-Mobile-locked phone and ask for T-Mobile based SIM. If you have a T-Mobile based phone, you will get the T-Mobile 4G (HSDPA+) with Straight Talk. ATT will only give you 3G.

Using both bands also means larger selection of handsets. If you want to keep your Lumia 900 from ATT, you can. If you want to use the Galaxy S3 from T-Mobile, you can. If you want to use the new Nokia Lumia 920 from ATT, you can.  No need to unlock the device - just ask for specific SIM card based on the phone.

You can pay in advance for several months or even a year - which will give you some savings. For example, if you buy a year plan, it will cost you $495 (instead of 12 * $45).

There are instances where MMS won't work with Straight Talk. There is also a short configuration setting mads that you will need to do once the SIM is installed. Nothing hard or requires unlocking etc - see here.

T-Mobile

With T-Mobile, to get the similar package like Straight Talk, you will need to pay $60 per month. But T-Mobile provides more options - see my post about T-Mobile prepaid service here. The killer awesome deal from T-Mobile is the $30 per month (web only or from Walmart) which gives you 100 minutes, unlimited messages, and 5GB of data. This is actually perfect for me and would have gone for it except for the causes below.

T-Mobile coverages is quite lacking compared to ATT or Verizon. I go to several places in a year that my current T-Mobile phone do not get coverage at all - while my ATT friends get their 3G.

Secondly, T-Mobile handset selection is limited, especially compared to Straight Talk, which gives you the flexibility to choose handsets from BOTH ATT and T-Mobile.

Also, T-Mobile customer service has been awful for the past 2 years or so.

Virgin Mobile and Cricket Wireless

Virgin Mobile (running on Sprint network) probably provides the best pricing with $35 per month for 300 minutes, unlimited messages and data* (2.5 GB). This would have been the perfect plan for me. But then, to go unlimited everything, it would have cost you $55 - which is still more expensive than Straight Talk.

Cricket also has $45 a month for 1000 minutes with unlimited text and data (1GB). To get 2.5GB data, the cost is $65 per month. 

Virgin & Cricket also has very limited selection of phone (Sprint phones) - but it has the iPhone 4 and iPhone 4S options. Secondly, Sprint's 3G (or 4G) is the slowest.

Others

Boost Mobile provides unlimited voice, text, and data for $50 per month, but like Straight Talk, if you pay several months in advance then you will get a discount.

Verizon provides the best coverage for 3G, but it is also the most expensive. It will cost you $50 per month for unlimited text, voice, and web* on a basic-dumb-phone. If you have a smartphone, it will cost you $80 per month.

ATT GoPhone costs $65 per month with 1GB of 3G data.

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I am going PREPAID cellular plan ...

Currently, with T-Mobile, I am paying $49.99 family plan, which gives me 2 lines, 500 minutes, free T-Mobile to T-Mobile calls, free nights and weekends. I pay extra for my 5GB data plan ($25) and my wife is using the 200MB ($12). Plus another $4.99 for each messaging plan. So overall, I am paying around $100 per month. My family plan is an old plan (grandfathered), so I also get the full discount for new devices in I choose to extend the 2 year contract.

Now, my plan is not bad at all, $100 for 2 persons - it is actually considered to be quite awesome - since most my friends who have newer plans on T-Mobile (or other carriers) usually pay between $80 or more per person. So basically almost half of what most of my friends with smartphones are paying.

Now, let's consider the overall ownership cost over 2 years - since that is the length of the standard cellphone contract. If I pay $279 for each device (assuming Samsung Galaxy S3), add the monthly payment, over 2 years, I am paying about $2,950+. Of course, that is cheaper than my friends who is paying $110 per month for their family plan. But, I plan to reduce the overall cost some more. How? By going PREPAID!

To each their own, but after assessing my needs (getting some stats from my bills for the last 6+ months), I think getting the Monthly 4G plan for $30 will be sufficient for me (and my wife). This plan will get me 5GB data, unlimited text and 100 minutes voice. So for both of us, that will be $60 per month - without contract. There is a drawback to this - that if I buy a new device, I have to pay full price without any discount. So that means $600 for Samsung Galaxy S3. So in short, no contract, I am paying cheaper per month, but paying 3+ times IF buying a new device. But what is the overall 2 years cost of ownership? Let's assume we both buy GS3 and paying $30 Monthly 4G plan - which totaling $2,640 - a saving of $300 over 2 years. It looks a small saving on paper, but in reality, it is actually a pretty good deal. Let's list down the benefit:

• No contract. Only pay as needed. So the potential saving here is actually larger. If I think for the next month that I will be in a WiFi bubble, I may switch to $10 pay as you go ans save some more. If I am traveling, I can switch back to the Monthly 4G etc. 
• In a contract deal, if I am not getting a new device once my contract is up - this means that I am giving free money to the carrier, since the cost of the phone is factored in the monthly bill. With no contract prepaid, I don't have that burden. This also means that if I elect to switch carrier or get a new cellphone/device, I don't have to wait until the contract is done.
• My wife data plan will get an upgrade, from 200MB per month to 5GB. Now, I am assuming that she needs that 5GB - if she does not (because of WiFi), she can switch to a cheaper pay-by-the-day based on usage.
• From 300 texts per month to unlimited texts. This is also assuming we need that. I mostly do not need it, but there is no plan with voice and data only. 
• If spending $100 or more in 1 year, get a Gold status, which means 15% more minutes and your minutes can be used for a full year (instead of the regular 90 days).
• No overages!

So overall, I am fairly convinced (for now) that the prepaid/Monthly 4G will save me some money but still fulfill my need for mobile communication.

T-Mobile also has Pay-As-You-Go plan (for voice prepaid) and Pay-By-The-Day plan (for use only when needed). Depending on your needs, these plans can potentially be cheaper than the Monthly 4G plan that I am planning to use.

 

 

Microsoft Windows engineer John Lam also has a similar story in his blog. 

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New Nikkor!

By getting Nikkor AF-S 24-70mm f/2.8G, I have completed my Nikkor lenses line up that covers 17-200mm for FX (full frame) and 10-200 for DX (crop format). So now, my lens line up is consisting of these lenses:

• Nikkor AF-S 17-35 f/2.8
• Nikkor AF-S 24-70 f/2.8G
• Nikkor AF-S 70-200 f/2.8G

Nikon has come up with Nikkor AF-S 14-24 f/2.8G and some people say that this lens is suppose to replace AF-S 17-35. I am not sure whether that is true or not, but since I bought my 17-35 before 14-24 came out and it still performs its job exceptionally well - then I am keeping it. I also have not tried 14-24 in person other than reading some reviews and seeing sample photos. Most people agree that 14-24 is one of Nikon's best - to the point even Canon people are looking for converted to be able to use with Canon cameras.

This is not a full spec detail review, but rather an experience based narrative. So I am going to write about my experience in using 24-70 for the last 1 month or so (I had it since early November). For the last month, I can say I use this lens almost exclusively - not because all my other lenses are bad - but because I have done mostly indoor shooting/photography. I took a lot of pictures of my son, thanksgiving parties, etc - and I can say that 24-70 is perfect for indoors.

Previously I usually use my 50mm f/1.4 AF-D or AF-S 18-200. If I use my 50mm, I can set it to f/4 and set my camera to A mode and be happy. If I am using multiple flashes, I set my camera to M mode and adjust exposure accordingly. My gripe with the 50mm is that it is not a zoom and also the speed of focusing is rather slow - so as a result I often missed some critical shot of my son acting funny.

I was not expecting that this lens will be so much faster in focusing - but apparently it is faster enough that I have more keeper than before. This lens is also very very sharp - even with normal sharpening setting in my camera, it produce a very sharp image - I would say that it is comparable to 50mm prime.

Compared to 18-200 is like night and day. Although 18-200 has its place as a travel lens, compared to 24-70, its flaws and compromised got exposed. The 24-70 is sharp wide open and stay sharp throughout the aperture range. The 18-200 is soft wide open and sharpest at f/6.3 - but even its sharpest is not comparable to 24-70 wide open.

The zoom ring of the 24-70 is also consistent and balanced, making it easy to zoom and compose - where 18-200 has zoom creep and imbalance zoom ring stiffness.

All in all, I am extremely satisfied with this new lens, AF-S 24-70 f/2.8G - worth every penny that I put into it.

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Photography as a Hobby

I am a serious hobbyist in photography. From my days in high school with film, until now in the digital era - photography has been a nagging interest in my life. For a certain period of time, it's virtually missing in my life - because of a simple reason: my camera was stolen. Since that point, for about 4 years, I did not own a camera - until my dad bought my wife and I a Nikon D70.

Holding the camera and pressing the shutter button triggered the journalistic memory from my high school and early college days. My film camera was a Nikon and the D70 that we had still use the same lens mount (it is called F-mount for Nikon). When I got a chance, I took all my old lenses and tried it and they worked!

Nikon vs. Canon
I am a little bit biased to Nikon because I owned Nikon equipments, including some of my old gears from the film days. Ultimately, they are a matter of preferences and your legacy equipments. So when you are already invested in Canon gears, it makes sense to continue on that route, same thing if you are in Nikon. If you are already invested in a brand, it is quite costly to switch - and this alone (depending on your seriousness level in photography) will be a strong cause to NOT switch brand.

I like Nikon bodies, their ergonomics, single functioning dedicated buttons, sub-command dials, shutter placement, etc. On the other hand, Canon is a step ahead in lenses variety. For 70-200mm alone, Canon provides 4 varieties (70-200 f/2.8 L USM IS and non-IS, 70-200 f/4 L USM IS and non-IS) with their price differences while Nikon only provides 1 model (70-200 f/2.8 AF-S VR). Nikon on the other hand is way ahead on lighting/flash technology.

Each brand also has bodies that range from early beginner up to the pro model (from $450 to $8K). So take your pick and stick with it. People ask me all the time about this and usually my answer is for them to try them out and pick for themselves. One benefit if you going with Nikon if you are my closer friends is that you can borrow my lenses and other Nikon equipment.

Crop Sensor
Most digital SLR now have crop sensor. What that means is that the sensor area is smaller then the area of a regular 35mm film. If the sensor area is the same as 35mm film, we call it "full frame" sensor - this usually only applied in the highest model line (Nikon D3, Canon 1Ds, etc) or close to highest (Nikon D700, Canon 5D). The smaller sensor area means that there is a crop factor in comparison to the 35mm area. For Nikon, the crop factor is 1.5 and for Canon is 1.3 or 1.6 (depending on the model). Crop factor 1.5 means that the digital sensor is 1.5 times smaller in area compared to 35mm film.

There are several implications to this factor:

• Wide is no longer wide. Since there is a crop, what used to be wide angle shot become not so wide anymore. Camera with crop sensor requires a WIDER lens to achive 35mm film/full-frame sensor width. So if you use a 20mm lens in a camera body with crop sensor, it will produce the similar result as if you are using a 35mm lens on a full-frame camera. 35mm = 1.5 * 20mm. To accommodate the need for wide angle shot, lens manufacturer create lenses especially for crop sensor that is super wide - but cannot be used in full-frame camera (or it will produce a fall-off or vignette).


• On the other hand, a 200mm tele lens becomes a 300mm tele lens in a crop sensor camera! So in a way, crop sensor body provides more reach.

Lens line up
So what is a good lens line up that spans from wide angle to tele for hobbyist? There are virtually endless possibilities, but I will try to provide several options based on budget. A good line up usually spans from ultra-wide (20mm or wider) to tele (200mm). In daily usage, it is rare you will need beyond this range.

OK, here we go - I am going with Nikon in most cases btw, if you want Canon, there are equivalent lenses - Google it!

1. Going SUPER EASY - crop factor (DX) - 1 lens fits all
• Nikkor AF-S 18-200 f/3.5-5.6 VR - $650
2. Going SUPER CHEAP (< $350) - crop factor (DX) - 2 lenses
• Nikkor AF-S 18-55 f/3.5-5.6 DX - $110 ($170 if get the VR)
• Nikkor AF-S 55-200 f/4.5-5.6 DX - $170 ($220 if VR)
3. Going CHEAP (< $500) - crop factor (DX) - 2 lenses
• Nikkor AF-S 18-70 f/3.5-5.6 DX - $250 (NO VR)
• Nikkor AF-S 55-200 f/4.5-5.6 DX - $170 ($220 if VR)
4. Going COMPROMISED (< $750) - crop factor (DX) - 2 lenses
• Nikkor AF-S 16-85 f/3.5-5.6 DX VR - $580
• Nikkor AF-S 55-200 f/4.5-5.6 DX VR - $220
5. Going QUALITY (~ $1,000) - crop factor (DX) - 2 lenses
• Nikkor AF-S 16-85 f/3.5-5.6 DX VR - $560
• Nikkor AF-S 70-300 f/4.5-5.6 VR - $460
6. Going PRO ($$$) - DX or FX - 3 lenses
• Nikkor AF-S 14-24 f/2.8 - $1,600
• Nikkor AF-S 24-70 f/2.8 - $1,600
• Nikkor AF-S 70-200 f/2.8 VR - $1,600

Obviously, this list is not exhaustive. There are more possibilities out there. Configure your own from this list!

If you are into MACRO, you want to get a MACRO lens, OR ... a reversing ring, so that you can use your PRIME wide angle or normal lens in reverse to get a magnification close to a MACRO lens (or maybe more - depending on how you configure it).

Currently, have quite a line up:

• Sigma 10-20 f/4-5.6 DX - since I am using a crop factor camera, this is my ultra wide angle lens (equiv to 15-35 in full frame or 35mm format)
• Nikkor AF-S 17-35 f/2.8
• AF-D 50mm f/1.4
• AF-S 70-200 f/2.8 VR
• AF-S 18-200 f/3.5-5.6 VR - my walkabout and daily lens

In this line up, I am still missing the normal zoom range - so I probably going to get AF-S 24-70 f/2.8 in the near future (or when I can finance it).

There you go! Photography hobby is not cheap - so buy only what is necessary and flee from trying acquiring the latest greatest every time, because it is a never-ending buying process if you allow it to be so. Photography can be very satisfying and if you are really good, you can make money of it too! Here are some of my photos:

• Flickr
• Picasa

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The Paradox of Egotism

“How can I find true happiness? / Abundant Life” Nothing is more “backward”/counter-intuitive that Jesus’ answer to this question. In fact, Jesus had a radically different answer.

During the last supper, Jesus knew that he was about to be betrayed, forsaken, arrested, unjustly condemned, beaten and killed. The room they were using for the last supper had no household slave to wash their feet. Jesus’ disciples were consumed with which one of them is the greatest, so none of them was about to admit he is lesser by assuming this role – and wash others’ feet.
Jesus eventually went down like a slave and washed their feet. After explaining that his action was a picture of his way of life, he said John 13:17

17 Now that you know these things, God will bless you for doing them.

This was not the first time Jesus tried to drive this point home to his disciples. He also taught it through a paradox that is the most frequently quoted of his paradoxes in the gospels, Matt 16:24-26

24 Then Jesus said to his disciples, “If any of you wants to be my follower, you must turn from your selfish ways, take up your cross, and follow me. 25 If you try to hang on to your life, you will lose it. But if you give up your life for my sake, you will save it. 26 And what do you benefit if you gain the whole world but lose your own soul? Is anything worth more than your soul?

This passage not only suggests that if you are willing to lose your life you will save it – it also strongly rejects the world’s culture of selfish living to achieve life-fulfillment (abundance) – by saying that selfish living will eventually destroy/lose one’s life.

Self-Centered Life Will Destroy Your Life

Consider this passage in 2 Tim 3:

1 You should know this, Timothy that in the last days there will be very difficult times. 2 For people will love only themselves and their money. They will be boastful and proud, scoffing at God, disobedient to their parents, and ungrateful. They will consider nothing sacred. 3 They will be unloving and unforgiving; they will slander others and have no self-control. They will be cruel and hate what is good. 4 They will betray their friends, be reckless, be puffed up with pride, and love pleasure rather than God. 5 They will act religious, but they will reject the power that could make them godly.

This passage teaches about the problems that will be developed when people are away from God – which is that people will focus on themselves (vs. 2, 4, and 5).
Living for self means several things according to this passage:
1. Loving money
2. Establishing a proud identity
3. Hedonism

When people are living for self, what we see above is quite reflective of what we see in 1 John 2 (lust of the eye, lust of the flesh, and the boastful pride of life) – there is no logical alternative that will make sense. Living for self means I must create my own sense of significance, satisfy my own needs, and make myself happy. The other problems are just some resulting damages that result from our selfishness.
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Abundant Life?

Everybody wants to have an abundant life. Some people feel that they are entitled more to it than others, but essentially we all want to live abundantly. To each one the standard of abundance may differ, but it almost does not matter. We may be rich or poor, healthy or in sickness, but there is this gnawing thirst to be satisfied and be happy.

Living in abundance means that we are not in need. This does not mean having things in excess or insurmountable things, but simply living happily and satisfactorily.

Throughout the ages humanity has been trying endlessly to find the key to happiness/abundant living. Ranging from psychological manipulation, wealth accumulation, positive thinking movement, secret society, religion, drugs, alcohol, and sex – all are human attempts to make themselves “happy” and living abundantly – and all of them seems to not scratch where it itches, at least for long and permanently. People always invent new ways of doing those thing in a new light, with a new twist, combining recipes, etc – in hope to find the ultimate way (and easy) to find permanent happiness and abundant living.

If we filter down and try to find a silver lining among the approaches that human have tried to find abundance in their lives, typically they are all boiled down to self-centered. In hind sight, this totally makes sense – since we are in need (not abundance) and unhappy, therefore we must strive to satisfy ourselves by finding whatever that will make me happy and satisfy my desires.

To be wholesomely happy then, we need to apply this to all areas of our lives, such as monetary, relationship, technology, food, entertainment, etc. How does this work?

In financial/monetary, we then strive to accumulate money as much as possible, so then we can feel that we are secured and able to buy things that we desire – and therefore resulting in happiness.

In our relationship, we then try to find friends that are not in conflict with us and as much as possible to be compatible. This will reduce tendency to conflict and emotional baggage that will consume our lives mentally and introduce more needs – which leads to unhappiness.

In finding our soul-mate or spouse, we uphold high the compatibility factor, since the more compatible you are, the happier you will be.

It is quite safe to say that we often consider that selfishness is the key to success in attaining abundant life. Our culture certainly says so – with all the movies, reality shows, contests, game shows, video games, music, fashion, commercials, books, and punditry.

Is SELFISHNESS really the KEY to SUCCESS in finding abundant living?
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